Susan Wisniewski has been working as a landscape architect for twenty years. In 1998 she formed her own design studio, Susan Wisniewski, LLC, in Beacon, New York. She has worked on a number of projects that have become models of sustainable design including People’s Mutual Housing Association, the first green low-income housing complex in Manhattan. Susan has also taught at the Brooklyn Botanical Garden and presented on sustainable design topics at numerous conferences and symposiums. Question: I’m shopping around for materials for a privacy fence in my backyard. Here in southwest Florida there are essentially two options: pressure-treated pine that is infused with a copper-based insecticide, and cypress taken from diminishing forests. For fence posts, builders always use pressure-treated pine. Are there any other options that will withstand the high heat and humidity here and be more environmentally friendly? I’m looking to grow organic vegetables in my yard and am concerned about leaching from the pressure-treated wood.
– Tim Martin, St. Petersburg, FL Answer: There are good alternatives to cypress and pressure-treated pine for your privacy screen, especially if you look at a planted hedge, or fence components made from nonwood products. Have you considered a living hedge? If you are considering a vegetable garden, you must have good sun exposure. Inkberry (Ilex glabra)—for a clipped hedge—or Southern wax myrtle (Myrica cerifera)—for an informal (not clipped) hedge—are two southwest Florida natives that will form a dense evergreen hedge. If you are concerned about small animals getting into your garden, or pets escaping, install a wire-mesh fence and plant the shrubs on either side of the fence, staggering the rows from one side to the other. The shrubs will quickly grow together and completely conceal the fence. Another option would be to grow vines on a wire-mesh fence. Indigenous vines such as Southern honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), Carolina yellow jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens), trumpet creeper (Campsis radicans) or Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) will grow into an effective evergreen screen. You could also plant cucumbers, peas, gourds, or grapes on the trellis, or espalier currants, oranges, lemons, etc.—turning your property into an efficient permaculture garden. If you prefer a constructed fence, there are good alternatives made from recycled materials or manufacturing by-products. These construction materials tend to be relatively maintenance free, durable, and do not need to be stained or painted. Trex is one company that has a line of products for decking and fencing. There is another product called Prairie Picket made from recycled plastic and wheat straw that looks promising. Or—right in Florida (local is better)—there’s American Fence Company, making fence components out of recycled plastic. Sustainability comes into play not just in how a product is manufactured, what materials it is made from, or how far it must be transported. Another important factor is durability—how long something will last. Build something that will stand the test of time. GreenHomeGuide’s Ask A Pro archive has answers to dozens of other green home questions from our network of the best and brightest green architects, designers, contractors and consultants across the U.S.

Original post by Hank Green

Susan Wisniewski has been working as a landscape architect for twenty years. In 1998 she formed her own design studio, Susan Wisniewski, LLC, in Beacon, New York. Susan has worked on a number of projects that have become models of sustainable design including People’s Mutual Housing Association, the first green low-income housing complex in Manhattan. She has also taught at the Brooklyn Botanical Garden and presented on sustainable design topics at numerous conferences and symposiums. Question: We need a new roof and want to go green with our renovation, but we are new to this and confused. What is a “white roof,” and what is the difference between a “white roof” and a “green roof”? I want to know the advantages and disadvantages, and I also need an expert in my area to help me out! We would like to be able to walk on the structure, if possible.
– Angela Corcoran, Brooklyn, NY Answer: The term white roof typically refers to a roof membrane coated with a white, water-based acrylic polymer. These roofs reflect sunlight and can help reduce energy demand during summer months. Green roofs are planted; they also reflect sunlight but can potentially provide many additional benefits. There is evidence that green roofs can reduce storm-water runoff, provide habitat, extend the life of a roof membrane, increase insulation and energy efficiency and provide aesthetic value. How effective a green roof is at any of these things is dependent on a number of variables and part of a lively debate. If you live in Brooklyn, chances are your building is at least 50 years old and the roof was not designed for the load of a green roof or pedestrians. Consult a structural engineer to see what your options are. A white roof would be a good option for you if you cannot add a green roof or if the cost to retrofit your roof is prohibitive. The white surface is a paint that dries like rubber and can be rolled or sprayed on the roof membrane. The process is relatively inexpensive and can significantly reduce summertime energy costs. It can also extend the life of your roof membrane and therefore reduce landfill. There is a slight increase in wintertime heating costs, but that is greatly outweighed by summertime savings. Even for those who don’t have or don’t choose to use air-conditioning, a white roof can improve the comfort of a home’s occupants during the summer. White roofs can also improve health (especially for the elderly), increase roof life, reduce heat-island effect, and improve indoor air quality. There are basically two categories of green roofs—intensive and extensive. Extensive green roofs have a substrate (planting medium) depth between 0.8 and 6 inches and are most frequently planted with a mixture of sedums. Maintenance is generally minimal, although still required, especially during the establishment period. Intensive green roofs have a substrate that is at least 6 inches deep, allowing you to grow a greater variety and larger-sized plants. These roofs need to be maintained like any garden, and weight-load considerations are a greater concern. There are many ways to design a green roof and numerous companies that offer their own alternatives. But in general the construction of a green roof includes a waterproof membrane, a root barrier and drainage layer, then the substrate, and finally the plantings. Getting enough water to the plants and providing good drainage are two main concerns. One of the easiest green roof constructions is available from a company called GreenGrid. They have devised a system of shallow, flat trays that contain all of the components—including plants—needed for a green roof. The trays are delivered preassembled. You just arrange the trays on your roof. In New York City there are some great examples of green roofs. Start at Earth Pledge—they are trying to raise awareness about green roofs in the City and have one you can ask to see firsthand. Then check out the Greenroof Directory, a website loaded with information. GreenHomeGuide’s Ask A Pro archive has answers to dozens of other green home questions from our network of the best and brightest green architects, designers, contractors and consultants across the U.S.

Original post by Hank Green

Susan Wisniewski has been working as a landscape architect for twenty years. In 1998 she formed her own design studio, Susan Wisniewski, LLC, in Beacon, New York. She has worked on a number of projects that have become models of sustainable design including People’s Mutual Housing Association, the first green low-income housing complex in Manhattan. Susan has also taught at the Brooklyn Botanical Garden and presented on sustainable design topics at numerous conferences and symposiums. Question: Our townhouse has a small backyard, 15 by 25 feet. It is currently a big swath of mud, but I would like to make it a pleasant place for the family to hang out. Most houses in this area pave the backyard with bricks or cement. I don’t want to do that—I understand that it’s not good for the environment, plus I want there to be some space where my kids can dig in the dirt and be kids. I would love to plant some sort of ground cover, but I haven’t found anything that seems tough enough to withstand people walking on it. Any suggestions?
– Robyn Shaw, Brooklyn, NY Answer: Reading your question a few possibilities come to mind, but one in particular stands out from the rest—stonedust. Chances are that if you live in Brooklyn, your backyard is shady. There really is no ground cover that can tolerate foot traffic like grass can, especially in the shade. The closest thing would be moss, but you would have to tread lightly for moss to thrive. Stonedust is a clean mixture of quarter-inch and smaller stone fines that are created during the processing of bluestone. The mixture of small, angular stones and fines compacts easily into a firm, stable surface that is porous, allowing for groundwater recharge and reducing volume in the public storm-drainage system. Stonedust is easy to install. A typical cross section could consist of eight inches of compacted subbase gravel (to provide good drainage), topped with two to three inches of stonedust. If your children dig into the stonedust, just level out the surface with a rake—or have them do the repairs! Include native plantings around the edges so that you have a more appealing garden. The plants will also help absorb storm water and provide food and cover for wildlife. Stonedust is relatively inexpensive, locally produced, and readily available at your local stone yard. It’s easy to walk on, it provides a perfect surface for outdoor furniture, and its soft, dark-gray color blends well with the landscape of the Northeast. Another option that will also provide you with a porous ground surface would be to place a local stone (such as bluestone or fieldstone) on top of the same combination of subbase material and stonedust that I described above. Keep the joints between the stones about four to six inches wide and plant these spaces with native moss or stonecrop (Sedum ternatum). This solution has all the advantages of stonedust alone, but with an alternative look. You might want to include a sandbox in one corner of the garden to keep your children from excavating the stonedust. Make a raised container (about nine to fifteen inches high) and it can double as a planter when the children outgrow the sandbox. GreenHomeGuide’s Ask A Pro archive has answers to dozens of other green home questions from our network of the best and brightest green architects, designers, contractors and consultants across the U.S.

Original post by Hank Green

We recently covered the low gas prices in New Jersey, the high cost of diesel nationwide, and the possibility that gas will reach $7 per gallon in four years. These factors have forced some behavioral changes in drivers, especially given the overall economic downturn. Some are opting for the usual alternatives:

Original post by By TIM MCKEOUGH

We’re looking to swap our lovely, airy, fully furnished Manhattan studio (pre-war bldg, very high ceilings, lots of light, fabulous location, elevator, recently renovated kitchen, brick walls, working fireplace) on one of the most charming historic streets in the East Village for an equally sweet Portland place for the months of July and August. Sellwood or nearby neighborhoods a big plus. Please, only mature, quiet, reliable, responsible, trustworthy souls with excellent credentials apply (we are the same). We are a mature professional couple who promise to take excellent care of your place and belongings in return for the same service from you. We need to be in Portland for critical family business this summer.

Original post by Erik